Hope in a Jar: Do Skin Creams Work?

You've seen the skin' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer' >antiaging skin care claims, in newspapers, magazines, and even online: ominous photos of hypodermic needles posed along side innocuous, even innocent-looking jars of cream.

The message: Topical cosmetic creams promises the same wrinkle-relaxing, age- defying results as some pricey wrinkle-filling injections like Restalyne and Juva Derm, or even Botox.

But can they? If you're skeptical about what you read, you're not alone. Not surprisingly, some doctors also question the claims and the promises.

"The bottom line is that if these creams could accomplish the same thing as a medical procedure, they would be drugs and not cosmetics -- and that's what you have to keep in mind when deciding whether to try or buy," says Marsha Gordon, MD, vice chairman of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City.

Some of the antiaging treatment technology focuses on compounds called pentapeptides -- small groups of long-chain amino acids that function as chemical messengers throughout the body. Among the most popular creams containing these ingredients include the Regenerist line by Olay, Strivectin-SD by Klein Becker, Wrinkle Relax by DDF, and the Principal Secret Reclaim line.

"It had a very strong pedigree going into the process -- we weren't just looking for the next hope in the jar, we were really looking at medical science before we started down the path with these products," says Lauren Thaman Hodges, director of Beauty Science for Olay skin care products.

Collagen Is Key

But collagen isn't just for healing boo-boos. It also plays an important role in how skin ages. Gordon explains that collagen is the support structure that gives our skin a firm, young appearance. When levels remain plentiful, our skin looks young and fresh. When levels decline, we lose that support and wrinkles begin to form. While wrinkle-filling injections can temporarily fill in the gaps, some researchers believe that topically applying these peptides to the skin might help it make more collagen on its own. This would have a "filling" effect similar to the wrinkle injections – but without the needle!

Antiaging Skin Care: What to Choose

If you just can't wait until the jury decides, here's a sampling of what's available -- and the active ingredients they contain.

• Regenerist by Olay. Key ingredient: palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. Price: $18.00 for 1.7 ounces.
• Strivectin-SD by Klein Becker. Key ingredient: oligopeptide palmitoyl. Price: $135 for 6 ounces.
• Principal Secret Reclaim Anti-Aging Night Cream. Key ingredient: argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3). Price: $40 for 1 ounce.
• Wrinkle Control Intensely Lifting Eye Gel with Revolox. Key Ingredient: acetyl hexapeptide-3. Price: $19.99 for 0.5 ounce.
• Wrinkle Relax by Doctor's Dermatologic Formula. Key ingredients: acetyl hexapeptide-3, palimtoyl pentatpeptide-3. Price: $75 for 0.5 ounce.
• Anew Clinical Line and Wrinkle Corrector by Avon. Key Ingredients: Exfoliants that include apple root extract, saccharomyces/pichia petone (a yeast complex), pomegranate juice, and oxa acid. Price: $32 for 1 ounce.

Botox injections cost approximately $400 each, take up to three weeks to see final results, and must be repeated every four to six months. Wrinkle-filling injections cost about $500 per line and up. They can last from six months to two years or more depending on the filler.

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