Dermaplaning Regret: Dos, Donts, and Horror Stories

Vellus hair can become denser with age or as a result of conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome. For many people, peach fuzz can cause insecurity and low self-esteem.

If you’ve ever done a quick Google search about quick fixes for female facial hair, you’ve probably come across the term “dermaplaning.” Dermaplaning is an easy, quick process that involves shaving vellus hair on your face with a specially designed dermaplaning razor.

If you dream of baby-smooth, hairless skin, this quick and noninvasive procedure may sound like a dream come true — however, dermaplaning isn’t always as dreamy as it sounds.

In fact, if it’s performed on the wrong type of skin by an inexperienced hand, it can lead to some serious horror stories.

What is dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is a procedure in which a single razor blade is used to remove the top layer of skin. The procedure is quick, relatively painless, and involves little to no recovery time.

While the removal of peach fuzz is one of the main draws of dermaplaning, it also has other benefits.

“There is a big misconception about dermaplaning, as people think it’s a hair removal treatment,” Maja Swierczynska, the lead aesthetic practitioner in London’s STORY clinic and dermaplaning trainer at Harley Academy, tells us. “Dermaplaning is actually a superficial exfoliation treatment, and a removal of vellus hair is a positive side effect of this treatment.”

As an exfoliation treatment, dermaplaning can also help to remove dead skin, increase brightness, and improve skin texture.

DIY vs. salon

At first glance, dermaplaning looks relatively simple. Most of us shave our legs at home. So, why not shave our faces at home, too?

While dermaplaning may look like something you could do at home, most professionals recommend against it.

“In my opinion, one of the biggest dangers is that dermaplaning blades became available online,” Swierczynska says. “Without knowing the correct technique, such as the right angle and how you should hold the blade, you can easily cut the skin and this can lead to infection.”

Not only can self-dermaplaning be dangerous, it can also be less effective.

In a clinic, dermaplaning can be paired with another treatment, Swierczynska explains, such as a skin peel, LED light therapy, or a HydraFacial, which will leave you with much more noticeable results.

Normal side effects

As with any exfoliating treatment, dermaplaning can result in some temporary side effects.

Breakouts

If you are prone to acne, dermaplaning can result in a fresh breakout. You can reduce your chances of a breakout by avoiding active acne when dermaplaning. As Swierczynska says, “Dermaplaning shouldn’t be performed on active acne, as it can easily spread the bacteria and cause another flare-up.”

Because dermaplaning removes a layer of skin, it can leave your face more exposed.

If your dermaplaning blade contains any bacteria or you have bacteria on your hands, you may be more likely to experience a breakout after your treatment.

Irritation

Dermaplaning can also cause irritation to your skin. After all, the procedure involves scraping a blade across your skin.

For 1 or 2 days after your dermaplaning session, you may feel that your skin is red, discolored, or itchy.

Dryness

It is perfectly normal for your skin to feel dry or even a little flaky after an exfoliating treatment like dermaplaning.

Ultimately, the procedure should improve skin dryness by lifting away any dead skin cells. However, in the first few days, the exfoliation may leave your face feeling tight and dry.

Minor cuts

A more intensive dermaplaning session may leave you with a few tiny cuts or grazes on your skin, especially if you have uneven skin texture.

However, if you get the treatment from a professional, any cuts should be incredibly small and should heal fully without leaving any marks behind.

When it goes wrong

While there are some side effects to dermaplaning that are normal and temporary, there are other potential side effects that can be more damaging — especially when the treatment goes wrong.

As Nicola Russell, celebrity facialist and owner of Skin Geek clinic, tells us, there is always a low risk that the procedure can go wrong — even if you visit a professional. “Like most treatments, there are always some risks involved if it’s not carried out by a trained professional or if you aren’t an ideal candidate for it,” she says.

Certain people, it turns out, aren’t good candidates for the treatment.

If you have an active skin condition such as acne, for instance, the treatment may end up spreading bacteria around your face, resulting in irritation and breakouts.

If you have sensitive skin or a recent sunburn, you may find yourself with more severe side effects. The treatment is also unsuitable for people who have taken Accutane or isotretinoin within the last 6 months.

Dermaplaning horror stories

When dermaplaning goes wrong, Russell explains, “you may be left with nicks, scratches or deeper cuts, and there is always the risk of infection and possible scarring. If the skin has been overworked, then your skin’s barrier will be impaired and you will be left red, inflamed, and sensitive, and many skin care products will irritate it.”

Other problems can occur, too.

Swierczynska explains that the dermaplane scalpel can end up removing hair from your hairline or eyebrows if the practitioner is inexperienced or if you perform the procedure at home. She also says that it’s vital to avoid using a hairdryer after the treatment, as your forehead will be more prone to burns.

In some rare cases, a dermaplaning treatment can turn into a nightmare. Swierczynska recalls one client who tried to perform the treatment on herself at home.

“This patient decided to use dermaplaning to remove her facial moles,” she says. “She ended up in [the emergency room] with an open bleeding wound on her cheek and a few stitches afterwards.”

Dermaplaning horror stories can also occur in clinics. YouTuber Taylor Wynn got the treatment in 2019 and was left with deep scratches and cuts all over her face.

In a video, she explained, “I got dermaplaning done today by a professional who, like, Edward Scissorhanded my whole face and neck.”

Throughout the procedure, Wynn felt blood dripping down her face several times. “She put on stuff afterwards and it was stinging,” she went on. “I just hope it’s not going to scar.”

She wrote, “Numerous times throughout this facial, I felt uncomfortable, which I verbally expressed as burning, stinging, and on fire. I was told I must be sensitive… When I went to the bathroom to change, I saw my skin — red, raw, and with a beating sensation — I knew something was wrong.”

Maffei’s horror story has a happy ending.

“Skin heals — fast!” she wrote. She was prescribed a wound-healing cream and after 2 weeks, her skin was almost back to normal.

Safety precautions

While these dermaplaning horror stories may fill you with trepidation, the treatment can be extremely beneficial and effective if it’s done right.

Here are a few safety precautions to bear in mind when planning for your dermaplaning session.

Read this next

Are you looking for ways to remove facial or body hair permanently? We'll break down treatments that can help get rid of hair on your face, legs…

Microdermabrasion is a cosmetic skin care procedure. Learn more about microdermabrasion, how the procedure is done, and what it’s used for.

Facial shaving can be done to remove vellus and terminal hairs from the cheeks, chin, upper lip, and sideburns. Learn about the pros and cons of women…

Giving yourself an at-home facial is easy with these expert tips on the 8 steps you need to take.

A cryotherapy facial is a noninvasive cosmetic procedure that won’t leave skin looking red or raw. Here’s what to know about getting one.

Keep your skin healthy and hydrated with our 10 top picks for the best moisturizers for acne.

If your skin is itchy, dry, or irritated, you skin barrier may be damaged. These 10 products can help repair and maintain it.

Applying a toner is an essential part of anyone's skin care routine, but especially if your skin produces an excess of oil — check out our top picks…

Treat the beauty lover in your life to a brand new face mask, moisturizer, or serum by shopping our ultimate skin care gift guide.

Placenta extract from sheep, human, and plant placenta is used in skin care products for antioxidants and anti-aging effects. Learn the benefits and…

Read more on: beauty, skin, skin care